[鞋子] Zamberlan鞋子結構及技術簡介

3月 16, 2020

獻慶前陣子剛入手一雙Zamberlan登山鞋，穿了幾天，發現鞋子確實粉棒!
(見Po文: [開箱] Zamberlan 1013 Leopard GTX WL 防水高筒皮革重裝登山鞋綠迷彩寬楦版 )

同時也發現自己對鞋子的結構很陌生，就做了一點功課。

Zamberlan鞋子基本結構

這裡不是要講細部結構，而是在挑鞋時，常會考量的關鍵結構。

基本上會看鞋面(Upper)、內裡/內襯(Lining)、外底/鞋底(Outsole)、中底(Midsole)、鞋墊(Insole/Footbed)。

名詞不講太多，主要是要看圖，掌握一下每個結構大概的位置，還有提供那些基本功能。

鞋面(Upper)

鞋面指的是鞋子最外面的部分，包覆腳趾、足部上部、足部側面、腳後跟。簡單講，包覆了整個足部。鞋面可以切取自單一塊材料或由複數材料拼接而成，此與鞋子的造型設計有關。鞋面主導整個鞋子的外觀。有些鞋面會強調透氣，有些則會強調防潑水等。

鞋面的材料很多，最大眾化的為皮革材料。

內裡(Lining)

使鞋在穿著行走時不易滑脫。

材質有獸皮(牛、羊、豬皮)、PVC皮(聚氯乙烯, Polyvinyl Chloride)、PU皮(聚氨酯, Polyurethane)等。

外底/鞋底(Outsole)

鞋底是鞋子底部最外側的部分，與地面直接接觸，相當於車胎，提供止滑、抓地力、與第一層緩衝。通常選用較耐磨的材質，根據不同運動取向設計不同紋路，以產生良好抓地力。路面愈崎嶇不平，橫紋要愈深、愈軟；路面愈平愈硬，橫紋要愈淺。提供鞋子安全性的關鍵部位，防止滑動跟跌倒。有些也提供隔熱、隔冷等功能。

鞋底可由不同材料組成，包含皮革、橡膠、PU (Polyurethane)及TPU。

中底(Midsole)

介於鞋底與內裡之間，提供穩定、避震、吸收震動、反彈功能，是鞋子的第二層緩衝，相當於車子的避震器。此處的用料基本上決定了鞋子大部分的緩衝能力。有些安全用鞋還提供了穿刺的保護功能。

中底可由許多不同材料組成。例如: Polyurethane (PU)、複合材料、克維拉(Kevlar)及鋼材。

鞋墊(Insole/Footbed)

鞋墊為鞋子內部結構，正位於足底下方，與足底直接接觸。鞋墊加強了穿著者對於鞋子的舒適感。同時可防止腳掌在鞋內滑動。提高承托，提高步伐的穩定。吸震。矯正步行及站立姿勢。

Zamberlan鞋子結構剖面圖及相關技術圖1。

Zamberlan鞋子結構剖面圖及相關技術圖2。

Zamberlan鞋子結構剖面圖及相關技術圖3。

技術簡介

Zamberlan鞋子使用了許多自己及合作夥伴的技術，讓使用者不僅可以穿得舒服，也可以達到提供登山、越野、打獵等特殊使用情境下的合適功能。

下圖列出Zamberlan已使用的技術圖樣。多樣的技術展現出Zamberlan在製鞋上的技術層次，與多年的經驗累積。

Zamberlan鞋子相關技術圖樣。

HydroBloc

This is the trademark registered by Zamberlan to identify only the best quality leathers, tanned following a special treatment that enhances the water-repellency, resistance, and durability.

中文翻譯:

Zamberlan註冊這商標。表示其使用最高品質的皮料，經過特別鞣制處理，增強其防潑水性、抵抗性及耐用性。

RRS (Rubber Reinforcement System)

A special rubber reinforcement is applied to the upper, using an exclusive technical method developed by Zamberlan. It ensures maximum abrasion resistance, enhances water repellence and helps the boot to keep its shape during extended use.

FS (Foot Wrapping System)

An exclusive method from Zamberlan to shape the upper with special patented moulds.

The foot is perfectly wrapped, sensitivity, control, and comfort are enhanced. The one-piece leather upper ensures greater protection from water and greater durability.

Zamberlan Tacking System

Zamberlan special construction method which uses not only thermoplastic glue, but also brass tacks of varying lengths which are automatically machined in a specific area. This method is extremely strong and durable and allows easy sole replacement.

Zamberlan Air System

Zamberlan special construction and design method and choice of components to optimize the comfort. Boots crafted accordingly are extremely lightweight and over 30 times more breathable!

中文翻譯:

Zamberlan融合了自家獨特的結構與設計理論及材料選擇，去最佳化舒適性。根據這些，鞋子的製作可達到極度輕量化以及超過30倍的透氣性。

Zamberlan Ladies System

Respecting and analyzing the anatomical differences of the female foot, Zamberlan has engineered a special last and a specific construction method to offer the best fit for women.

Zamberlan Anti-Torsion System

It is the special stabilizer engineered by Zamberlan to achieve the best combination of torsional stability and tuned flexion at the natural foot flex point.

中文翻譯:

由Zamberlan設計的獨特穩定結構，去達到"扭轉穩定性"及"在足部自然柔性點的屈伸"兩件事情上的最佳化。

Zamberlan X-tra Grip

A revolutionary rubber and PU double density sole. X-tra Grip offers an impressive combination of features: maximum grip, good abrasion resistance, lightweight, great comfort, cushioning and durability. The rounded grooves encourage self-cleaning of the sole during use.

Zamberlan Dual Grip

It is a special rubber/PU sole developed by Zamberlan to ensure the greatest shock absorption, comfort, durability, lightness, and grip on any terrain.

Hydrobloc Barrier System

A complete protective microclimate for feet. Hydrobloc treated leather used in combination with a special Cambrelle lining and with the appropriate Hydrobloc Proofing Treatment to enhance the waterproof qualities of the boots and maintain comfort.

Zamberlan Cushioning System

To reduce the impact of the foot on the terrain at every step, the Z.C.S. utilizes different types of shock-absorbing materials all with high cushioning and stabilizing effects.

Gore-Tex

Microporous membrane with specific characteristics of water resistance and breathability. Its structure and construction make it an ideal lining for outdoor footwear.

中文翻譯:
細微孔洞的薄膜，有著防水、特氣的特性。該結構使它成為戶外鞋的理想內裡。

Vibram

Is the trademark internationally recognized for the quality, durability, and grip of the high-performance rubber soles.

中文翻譯:

這個商標，表示使用國際公認具有好品質、耐用性、抓地力的高表現力橡膠鞋底。

Cambrelle

High-performance non-woven fabric, it is hygienic, antibacterial, extremely absorbent and quick-drying, very resistant to abrasion and stretch. All these properties make of it an ideal lining for heavy-duty outdoor footwear.

Cordura

The high-performance fabric of outstanding durability and excellent resistance to tearing and puncture ensure many years of enjoyment of lighter weight and breathable boots. Most of our boots use Teflon Fabric Protector treated Cordura to provide maximum water and stain repellency.

Thinsulate Insulation

A lightweight and thin thermal insulation developed by 3M that offers maximum comfort will keep you warm also in damp or wet conditions and has a superior active-breathing performance.

參考資料: Zamberlan Boot Care.pdf

PS: 上述說明的中文翻譯部分，僅針對獻慶有碰到的部分。這種一兩句話的介紹，僅只提供一般性的淺層認知，若想深入，得另行查資料。

感想

在查相關資料時，發現製鞋又是另一個領域的學問了，不僅基礎知識繁複，還有很多都還是高科技。

還有，台灣製鞋產業真是厲害，整個產業鏈完整。材料方面也涵蓋紡織、橡膠以及塑化產業。也難怪幫很多大廠代工。

當然，現在不只是對Zamberlan鞋子有更深一層的了解。也對一般鞋子的整體結構更加認識，未來挑鞋子，口味怕是會加重了! ^_^

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